His approach to his craft can best be described as “uncompromising”. And as a tailor who makes only several suits a month with a full perfection on the details for his clients around the world.
Ayres Bespoke Tailor is the name of the atelier on Lisbon, Portugal – where the good-natured and eagle eyed tailor, Ayres Gonçalo draws suits that fit his clients’ lifestyles and offers ranges of colourful and striking linings.
As a tailor, Ayres Gonçalo has received the Bespoke Tailor certificate from the Savile Row Bespoke Association, a seal of approval that places him among the most elite in his profession as a tailor. In his atelier, he offers a customized service, starting with the suits, shirts, and, more recently, footwear to complete the Bespoke suit. He naturally draws the curve parts of the patterns with chalk and hand-stitched these suits are unique and meet any level of detail that the client may require.
“I have customers from Singapore, England, Italy, Switzerland, Brazil, Angola, all around the world. We call the fitting room of a tailor ‘The Confessionary’ because the customer tells you things about his life. You are like a psychologist to your customer because he tells you about his problems, he speaks to you about his business, his tastes,” stated Gonçalo in CNA Luxury.
Gonçalo takes about 50 to 70 hours to make a suit, five suits per month, with 500.000 stitches. “The point is the quality. It’s not to make 200 or 300 suits a year. I prefer to make a few, but good ones,” he explained.
Gonçalo was born and raised in a traditional tailor’s family and soon showed interest in this art. He was mentored during his teenage years by his grandfather Ayres Carneiro Da Silva who was considered one of Portugal’s best tailors, with a 70-year-long career and his clients list included famous artists, sports personalities, members of Parliament, and top bankers in his atelier, Ayres Alta Costura.
After that Gonçalo headed to Madrid, Spain and studied at the Sociedad de Sastres de España where he was given the opportunity to improve his knowledge and tailoring techniques. At the same time worked with the best tailor in Madrid, Pedro Munoz. Two years later Gonçalo moved to London, where he worked at the the oldest bespoke tailors on Savile Row, Grieves & Hawkes, where he made a tailored suit for HRH Prince Charles. Then to New York to work with Michael Andrews Bespoke where the short partnership allowed him to reinforce his experience through contact with the New Yorkers tailor craftsmanship which then led him to China, where he worked for several months training tailors in Shenzhen and Hong Kong before he went back to Portugal to open his own atelier, continuing the legacy of his grandfather.
Source: This tailor takes 70 hours and 500.000 stitches to make a single suit by hand — AYRES BESPOKE TAILOR31 Fashion + Industry icon FASHION + INDUSTRY Tailoring — Ayres Gonçalo, o alfaiate que vestiu o Príncipe Carlos e que aprendeu tudo com o avô — This tailor takes 70 hours and 500.000 stitches to make a single suit by hand | Remarkable Living.